Berbena, Barcelona

Build a better tasting menu

My apartment in Barcelona is just a block away from Berbena, and I’ve walked by its raucous service on nights when I take the alley shortcut back home. Every time, the noise spilling into the alley beckons me in.

So when Chef Mario was in town and asked if I wanted to join him for a last-minute meal at the chef’s counter on a Monday night, I was an enthusiastic “yes!”

Service is run in two synchronized seatings, with all diners sitting down at the same time and putting in their orders at once. Almost the entire menu is available in half portions (swoon!) and tasting as much as possible is encouraged.

They are proudly wine-obsessed, serving many Spanish wines while also venturing farther afield with natty oddities from across Europe. We asked for something white or orange, maybe oxidized, with some character and funk. Our sommelier presented a few options, but when the chef wandered by, he quickly chose for us — a Meinklang Vulkán from Hungary with strong apricot aromas. He took full control of our wine pairings for the rest of the meal (again, swoon).

Then service begins — the kitchen goes down the menu, plating up every order of each dish simultaneously, then moving on to the next course. Lazy Bear dinner-party vibes, but in a more casual setting. There is no front or back of house - everyone cooks, everyone serves.

Here is what we ate:

White shrimp tostada - a great start to the meal, clean, simple, bright.

Bimi with hake roe emulsion - “bimi” is broccolini - served here with a “hake roe” emulsion which was the highlight of the dish.

Seasonal pointed cabbage - always order the cabbage. I would have burned it some more.

Oxtail gyoza and a bit of broth - our first dish that really stood out. It was floating in a rich broth with a genuinely spicy oil floating on top. Reminded me of the “aged beef dumpling” from Rich Table in San Francisco.

Scallops, aguachile and baby broad beans. Outstandingly bright and sweet scallops.

Green beans and potato, with egg and Iberian ham. This was a dish we didn’t order, but while seeing it being plated we got FOMO and asked the kitchen if it was possible to add an order. Chef plated it up personally on top of his MacBook.

Charcoal grilled squid, green peas and pork jowl. Gorgeous plating, I loved the translucent drape of pork fat over the lean squid, and impressive sushi-style knife cuts exposing the texture of the squid.

Cured tuna, persimmon and macadamia. Probably the only real miss for me, the tuna was fresh but criminally under-seasoned. In retrospect I wish I asked for salt, but instead just ate and moved on.

Duck with seasonal roots - the best dish of the night. Incredible sauce, perfect rich cook on the duck and included some offally bits.

Mind-blowingly tender lengua buried under a rich mustard sauce.

And finally, desserts:

Sweet potato cream, persimmons and honey ice cream. Served with a pour of Vin Jaune, one of my favorite wines aged in a sherry-like process to create something dry, complex, truly special.

“Tropical vibes”

Crème frâiche ice cream, olive oil and salt - a classic for a reason, this was the best dessert of the night.

And with that, our meal was done. The kitchen was already resetting for the next service.

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Thanks for reading The Camera Eats! I’m Jesse - I’m a food and photography obsessed serial entrepreneur living in Barcelona. I’m sharing my passions through The Camera Eats. You can follow along with my adventures on Instagram, join the discussion in our Reddit Community, or if you’re visiting Barcelona sign up for a guided photo and food tour for a hands on exploration of the beauty and deliciousness that Barcelona has to offer.